Italy’s Lake Iseo provides a less crowded alternative to Lake Como and Garda. Monte Isola, the island’s largest landmass, rises with cliffs and dense forest. It harbours old fishing hamlets and hillside villages that attract visitors seeking easy-going cycling and sightseeing.
The ferry docks at Peschiera Maraglio after a short crossing from Sulzano. Guide Chiara from Brescia explains that only the priest, the doctor and the mayor are allowed to own a car on the island. Residents use mopeds to navigate steep roads while buses run throughout the day. Nearly all other cars are banned, and visitors rent bikes from €4 an hour.
The smooth roads encourage slow cycling and frequent stops to admire views. The route passes olive groves tumbling to the shore and the lakeside hamlet of Sensole. Riders stop in Menzino for espresso with a lake backdrop.
From the western side, a concrete factory on the mainland interrupts the view. The island capital Siviano features sleepy streets lined with pastel villas and the facade of Santi Faustino e Giovita church. Monte Isola has seen habitation since Roman times. Venetian rule in the 15th and 16th centuries left hillside terraces of wooden-shuttered villas. In the late 18th century, net making became the main industry. At Retificio La Rete Srl in Siviano’s port, workers handweave fishing nets for centuries along with those for basketball hoops, football goals, shopping bags and hammocks.
The northern tip reveals the island’s craggiest mountains. Jagged peaks plunge into the emerald-green lake. A small island, Isola di Loreto, rises with a privately owned castle-like building. Kayakers from Marone approach its dock across still water.
In Carzano, the pink-and-white San Giovanni Battista church catches the eye. The eastern shore route sees an occasional Fiat Punto. The circular path returns to Peschiera Maraglio for a late lunch at La Foresta restaurant. Pickled tench and chub carpaccio open the meal. Dried, salted sardinas on grilled polenta follow. Chiara notes that the fish is a type of shad, and in the middle ages the island paid its tax to Venice in salted sardinas.
As evening ferries leave, Peschiera Maraglio feels private. Private holiday apartments and rooms are available. Decio offers a modern bistro with sleek bedrooms above and uninterrupted lake views. Rooms start at €90 B&B.
The next day the author hikes instead of cycling. The trail begins with cobbled streets in Peschiera Maraglio and winds into thick chestnut forest. After 450 metres of climbing, the path reaches Santuario della Madonna della Ceriola. Built in the 13th century on the remains of a pagan temple and early Christian chapels, the white sanctuary displays a vast golden altar and detailed frescoes. Its exterior delivers a panoramic view of the lake and the ferry to Sulzano.
Autumn colours creep into the forest. The trip was arranged by Visit Brescia. Bike rental starts at €4 an hour. The ferry from Sulzano to Monte Isola is €2.60 each way. Trains run from Brescia to Sulzano from €4.10.
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